Asana
– Comfortable, stable pose
‘Asana'
is the third of the eight limbs of the tree of Yoga. The word
asana means comfortable, stable pose. Asanas influence the
body in various ways. They purify, strengthen and give flexibility,
steadiness and discipline to the body. They balance the endocrine,
nervous and circulatory systems. Practising asanas prepare
the body for the next stages.
Patanjali
tells us that the mastery of asanas occurs when practice becomes
effortless - "Prayatna saithilya ananta samapattibhyam.”
B.K.S. Iyengar translates this sutra as, "perfection
in an asana is achieved when the effort to perform it becomes
effortless" Is it not the same when we see a climber
whose movement is fluid and effortless, easy, elegant and
aesthetic? Legendary climber John Gill looked for the effortlessness
and the aesthetics of pure movement on the rock. He tells
us, “a boulder problem is not truly solved if it is
not mastered with elegance and grace.”
Brian Cooper explains, “the essence of asana is sometimes
described as ‘Sthira Sukha’, meaning strong and
comfortable.” Asana and vinyasa must be practised with
a balance of strength and relaxedness, effort and surrender.
A climber’s movement is the same. A climber must be
powerful and strong, but also relaxed and fluid.
The Bhagavad Gita tells us that; "Yoga samatva uchyate."
– “Yoga is the state of balance.” Maintaining
balance and fluid movement is essential in climbing or when
practicing vinyasa or balance postures. When you let go of
one hold and reach for the next you must maintain balance,
often on tiny holds. When you bring your foot forward into
Virabhadrasana I (Warrior I) during Surya Namaskara Kha (Sun
Salutation B) and reach up with your hands, you must stay
in balance.
Jumping in and out of postures, as in Surya Namaskara, keeps
the mind alert and improves co-ordination as does keeping
in balance on a smooth, slabby climb. Shiva Rea explains that
vinyasa is not just a sequence of postures but is the “intelligence
that connects one moment, one breath, one action to the next.”
Through vinyasa a climber can cultivate a meditative state
in a relaxed setting away from the rock, develop a continuity
of awareness of breath and become familiar with how it feels
to be focused, confident, fluid and continuous from one movement
to the next. These subtle proprioceptive insights can be carried
over into climbing.
To make smooth transitions and weight transfer when climbing
or practicing asanas we must be conscious of our relationship
to gravity. Our center of gravity shifts with each movement
we make. Aline Newton writes; “Like the air around us,
our relationship with gravity is so basic, so fundamental,
that we rarely think of it. Yet it underlies - sets the tone
for - every one of our actions and behaviours.” Exploring
our centre of gravity in asana practice is helpful for climbing.
For instance moving from Trikonasana (Triangle) to Ardha Chandrasana
(Half Moon Pose) we learn to transfer our weight onto one
foot. This is a similar move to climbing when we step up and
transfer our weight onto a foothold and then counterbalance
with our free leg to maintain balance.
Precise footwork is one of the most important techniques to
master in climbing. Strong, supple feet and mobile ankles
are important for climbers. Yoga teaches us to be aware of
our feet. Accurate foot placement and alignment is crucial.
Brian Cooper says, “As in all asanas, the placement
of the feet are fundamental to maintaining lightness, stability
and dynamism.”
The same is true for climbers. Tias Little also agrees that,
"Every so often, it's a good idea to make your feet your
primary focus through a whole Yoga practice. Almost every
Yoga pose engages the feet and reflects their actions up through
the body in a slightly different way."
Strong legs also play an important role in pushing when climbing.
Balance postures “make the leg muscles powerful and
gives one steadiness and poise.” One-legged balance
postures such as Utthita Hasta Padangusthasana (Extended Hand
to Big Toe Posture) train the proprioceptors in your legs,
feet and ankles and cultivate concentration.
Asanas
such as Plank, Chaturanga Dandasana (Four-Limbed Staff Pose)
and Adho Mukha Svanasana (Downward Facing Dog) support and
balance a climber’s antagonist muscles, helping to avoid
injuries. Chaturanga Dandasana also helps a climber to understand
subtle ‘push and pull’ forces and their relationship
to gravity. Brian Cooper tells us, “this asana (Chaturanga
Dandasana) means ‘four limbed stick posture’ and
the aim is to make the body as rigid as possible. This makes
it a highly effective asana where opposing forces must be
used intelligently to counteract gravity.” Iyengar tells
us, “this pose strengthens the arms and the wrists develop
mobility and power.” Wrists, elbows, shoulders and forearms
take a lot of stress when climbing. Iyengar tells us that
Parsvottanasana (Intense Side Stretch), “relieves stiffness
in the leg and hip muscles…… the wrists move freely
and any stiffness there disappears……..the posture
also corrects round and drooping shoulders.” This asana
brings balance to a climber’s overworked back muscles.
A
strong core allows us to have smoother, more efficient and
better co-ordinated movement. It is as important to have a
strong core to stop your feet swinging off when climbing on
steep rock as it is to have a strong core in asanas such as
Plank, Vasishthasana (Side Plank Pose), Chaturanga Dandasana
(Four Limbed Staff Pose) or Purvottanasana (Intense Stretch
of the East). Moving from a strong core is essential to climbing
fluidly, without effort. Liz Koch explains, "true strength,
stability and autonomy comes when the connection between the
various parts of you work in harmony.” It is important
to be aware and active throughout the pose or a climbing move
and not just to maintain tension in one area, such as the
arms. The tension can also run through the core, connecting
feet to hands. Working with the bandhas, Mula Bandha (Root
Lock), and Uddiyana Bandha (Flying Upwards) throughout the
practice creates core stability and strength. David Coulter
talks about core strength: “A sure way to develop what
yogis call inner strength is to tone the abdominal region.
If energy in the arms and shoulders is weak, a strong abdomen
can give you an extra edge, but if the abdomen is weak, look
out, because even the strongest arms and shoulders are likely
to fail you.”
B.K.S.
Iyengar tells us that “the right method of doing asanas
brings lightness and an exhilarating feeling in the body as
well as the mind and a feeling of oneness of body, mind and
soul.” The same feeling could be said for a climber
who has made the right sequence of moves on a challenging
climb, where they have worked with gravity and experienced
lightness, flow and focus.
Asana
sequences for Climbers 
Yoga for shoulders,
elbows and wrists
Hip Openers, Hamstrings,
Adductors & Psoas Sequence
Yoga for Core strength
Yoga for balance/
strength sequence
Yoga
for feet (foot awareness for climbers)
