Yoga for Climbers



Maintaining balance and fluid movement is essential in climbing or when practicing vinyasa (movement connected with the breath) or balance postures. A climber must maintain balance on tiny holds while reaching for a new hold. A yogini will bring her foot forward into Virabhadrasana I (Warrior I) during Surya Namaskara Kha (Sun Salutation B) and reach up with her hands in balance. Through vinyasa a climber can cultivate a meditative flow of movement off the rock, develop a continuity of awareness of breath and become familiar with how it feels to be focused, confident, fluid and continuous from one movement to the next. These subtle proprioceptive insights will carry over into climbing.

Asanas such as Plank, Chaturanga Dandasana (Four-Limbed Staff Pose) and Adho Mukha Svanasana (Downward Facing Dog) support and balance a climber's antagonist muscles, helping to avoid injuries.

Exploring our centre of gravity in asana practice is helpful for climbing. For instance when moving from Trikonasana (Triangle) to Ardha Chandrasana (Half Moon Pose) we learn to transfer our weight onto one foot. This is a similar move to climbing when we step up and transfer our weight onto a foothold and then counterbalance with our free leg to maintain balance.

Strong legs can play an important role in pushing when climbing. Balance postures can make the leg muscles powerful and give one steadiness and poise. One-legged balance postures such as Utthita Hasta Padangusthasana (Extended Hand to Big Toe Posture) train the proprioceptors in your legs, feet and ankles and cultivate concentration.

Unconscious habits in climbing can be identified through mindfulness practise.

Limitations in climbing can be to do with the mind and not the body. By dedicating time every day to a mindfulness meditation practice, the mind can be trained to have more positive emotions , to be less anxious and in the moment. Being aware of the mind (thoughts, emotions, desires, actions, intentions, perceptions, expectations) will significantly benefit your climbing. Meditation has been found in many scientific research studies to reduce anxiety and increase positive emotions.

View climbing experiences as they are, through conscious awareness and mindfulness; What holds you back - the mind or the body? Be truthful to the more negative aspects of this even if you don't like them; This sutra is from the Yoga Sutras of Patanjali; "The more we lead a life of honesty, the more we will see the results, and that will encourage us to be more honest." Assess your climbing ability honestly.

Be clear in a movement; Move with intention; Be pure in your decisions; Have no doubt. The Bhagavad Gita explains that, “If your mind is unsteady and wandering, many branched and endless are the thoughts and choices. When your mind is clear and one-pointed, there is only one decision.” Such clarity is required in climbing.

Fear is a powerful emotion and can be a big limitation for climbers, yogis and yoginis. A natural fear of falling is a major challenge to climbing, balances and inversions. We often imagine 'what might happen' which fuels the thought or emotion. The beliefs and fears one has about a falling off or gear holding are often totally different from the actual outcome. Becoming aware and mindful of these beliefs and questioning them takes their power away. To be free from fear we have to become familiar with it, begin to work with it and understand it.

Climbing with tapas means climbing with commitment and perserverance; Tapas is required to change the course of our habits and to progress in balance, strength and endurance. . Swami Satchidananda explains; “Tapas means to burn or create heat. Anything burned out will be purified. The more you fire gold for example, the more pure it becomes. Each time it goes into the fire, more impurities are removed.” We should be challenged but not struggling. Practicing with effort does not mean with tension. It is important to learn to stay alert but relaxed.

Often in climbing a route the holds are not obvious. Small changes or movements can help to overcome more difficult sections of the route. It is important to commit and trust that there will be a foothold or handhold.


Doubt is an obstacle. If you are free from doubt when climbing or practicing yoga, you will be strong and steady.

Breath Awareness
The conscious use of the breath is most important in any yoga practice or climbing movement.



Emotions and feelings have a strong connection with the breath and are expressed in the way that we breathe. When your breathing reacts to an emotion your body also reacts. When preparing for a crux move and you need to let go of negative thoughts (gear holding, fear) take a deep breath and exhale strongly. Do this three times. I usually do this just before relaxing into Savasana (Corpse Posture) at the end of asana practice and I found that it naturally carried over into leading trad routes when I had to let go and be in the moment. Read more....


Yoga Feet

Precise footwork is one of the most important techniques to master in climbing. Strong, supple feet and mobile ankles are important for climbers. Yoga teaches us to be aware of our feet. Accurate foot placement and alignment is crucial. Brian Cooper says, “As in all asanas, the placement of the feet are fundamental to maintaining lightness, stability and dynamism.” The same is true for climbers. Tias Little also agrees that, "Every so often, it's a good idea to make your feet your primary focus through a whole Yoga practice. Almost every Yoga pose engages the feet and reflects their actions up through the body in a slightly different way."

Look at where you have placed your foot before committing; Only place as much of the shoe as you need; Be accurate; Think of a mantra such as 'sticky rubber' and apply it to your footwork - your feet will stick like glue after practice; Feet can push, pull and grip when climbing - Be 'active' in your foot placements; Be confident; Make sure that your centre of gravity is over your foot; Squeaky clean boots.

Read more about footwork......

Research
"Pranayama increases grip strength without lateralized effects," Read more...